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我拍少女

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100个中国酷女孩,2019最值得收藏的画册。
作者:不康不良

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从少女写真到少女摄影

徐淳刚

少女,美与纯洁的化身,爱与哀愁的象征;曾经你是少女,现在你是少女,曾经你喜欢少女,现在你喜欢少女,但最终却只能像莎士比亚一样哀叹:“时间会刺破青春的华丽精致,会把平行线刻上美人的额角,会吃掉稀世珍宝,天生丽质,什么都逃不过他横扫的镰刀。”少女是永远的话题,因为它关乎时间与美。如果有人写一部《少女史》,一定比古今中外任何历史著作都要迷人;关于少女的摄影,总是能打动男人和女人……

但少女摄影在中国无疑写真化了,或者说日本化了,至少从年轻摄影师们的创作来看,大多深受筱山纪信、荒木经惟的影响,无论影调、拍摄方式都能看出日本写真的影子。这一方面证明,中国的年轻摄影师不但真心喜欢而且在模仿、学习日本摄影,为中国摄影注入活力,另一方面也让人产生疑虑:这样的作品原创性在哪里?年轻的摄影师们到底能走多远?

写真文化虽然很少直接触及现实,更多表达一些私性或个性的主题,但日本的女性写真文化在今天看来依然是历史性的,有其文化根源和特点。比如,“私摄影”在实质上不是指一种风格或私人化的摄影,而是一种生活方式、思想方式的改变。这个当年日本摄影界用来批评荒木经惟的概念,最终成了一种潮流,却也是非常模糊、暧昧的潮流,好像随便拍点什么私性的东西就叫私摄影。完全不是,这首先是一种个性生活的抗衡,其次是一种非社会化摄影的抗衡,再次是一种身体性的美学的抗衡。正因如此,它才深得青年人的喜欢。而筱山纪信式的少女写真,无论《少女馆》、《少女欲望》还是拍摄宫泽理惠的全裸写真集《Santa Fe》,都是一种创造性的、生活化的、区别于西方人体-人像美学的摄影。对于日本写真文化,我们不能简单模仿,需要将之放到世界摄影的范围内去考量,如此才能更好地理解它的独特性。

筱山纪信、荒木经惟,这些不可逾越的写真顶峰,标画出东方少女摄影或私摄影的高度,他们的摄影关键在于创造创新,区别于前人。这和源自古希腊美学的西方人体-人像摄影完全不同:爱德华•韦斯顿是抽象的,赫尔穆特•纽顿是情色窥淫的,吕西安•克莱格是浪漫汹涌的,他们更强调人体的健美,抽象的几何线条,终极的爱欲,或极端的色情。而像大卫·汉密尔顿的油画式少女人体摄影,代表了欧美少女摄影美学的顶峰。莎莉·曼拍摄女儿的摄影,将生活、生存、亲情以及隐秘的死亡联系在一起。乔克·斯特戈斯的《裸体主义家庭》,是对“天体运动”文化的关注。近年热门的乌克兰摄影师大卫·杜勃尼斯基的田园美少女摄影,更是集合了田园之风、时尚色彩和人体之美,表达一种现代都市人最向往的理想化的生活状态。

因此来说,少女摄影是一个很广泛的范畴,不只是少女写真。从少女写真到少女摄影,将是一种祛写真的过程,一种更深入的摄影思考的过程。如此我们才能有更好的少女摄影。拍摄少男少女,摄影师任航已被世界所知。任航之后,中国出现了不少优秀的青年摄影艺术家,例如编号223,病女,蔡东东,戴建勇,方闲海,甘莹莹,轱辘,九口走召,咖小西,李政德,慕容拖鞋,神思远,夏扶摇,小棺木,袁小鹏等, 他们的作品也包括少女题材的创作。他们的摄影更具东方特色和当下性,很好地诠释了“中国少女”的主题和内涵。让世界了解中国摄影,同时也了解“中国少女摄影”的现在和未来。

From Girl Syashin To Girl Photography

Xu Chungang

Girl, beauty and pure incarnation, symbol of love and mourning; once you were a girl, now you are a girl, once you liked girl, now you like girl, but in the end it can only lament like Shakespeare: "Time doth transfix the flourish set on youth And delves the parallels in beauty’s brow,Feeds on the rarities of nature’s truth,And nothing stands but for his scythe to mow." Girl is a topic forever, because it is about time and beauty. If someone writes a book, "History of Girl", it must be more charming than any historical work in ancient and modern China and abroad; photography about  girls can always impress men and women...

However, Girl Photography is undoubtedly Girl Syashin in China, or Japanese style, at least from the creation of young photographers, most of them are deeply influenced by Shinoyama Kishin and Nobuyoshi Araki, regardless of the tone and shooting style. This aspect proves that young photographers in China not only really like and imitate and learn Japanese photography, but also inject vitality into Chinese photography. On the other hand, also have doubts: Where is the originality of such works? How far can young photographers go?

Although the Syashin Culture rarely touches the reality, it expresses more the theme of private or individuality. However, the Japanese female syashin culture still looks historical today and has its cultural roots and characteristics. For example, “private photography” does not mean a style or a private photography, but a change in lifestyle and way of thinking. This concept used by the Japanese photography industry to criticize the Nobuyoshi Araki was eventually a trend, but it was also a very vague and embarrassing trend. It seems that casually taking something private is called private photography. Not at all, this is first of all a counterbalance of individual life, followed by a counterbalance of non-social photography, and once again a counterbalance of physical aesthetics. For this reason, it has won the favor of young people. And the girlish portrait of the Shinoyama Kishin style, whether the " Girls Hostel", "Girls' Desire" or the full nude photo album "Santa Fe" of Miyazawa Rie, is a creative, life-oriented, different from the Western human body - Portrait photography. For Japanese photo culture, we can't simply imitate it, we need to put it into the scope of world photography to consider it, so that we can better understand its uniqueness.

Shinoyama Kishin and Nobuyoshi Araki, these insurmountable peaks of photography, mark the height of oriental girl photography or private photography. The key to their photography lies in creating innovation and distinguishing them from their predecessors. This is completely different from Western nude-portrait photography from ancient Greek aesthetics: Edward Weston is abstract, Helmut Newton is erotic, Lucien Clergue is romantic, they More emphasis on body building, abstract geometric lines, ultimate eroticism, or extreme pornography. And the oil painting-style girl body photography like David Hamilton represents the culmination of European and American girls' photography aesthetics. Sally Mann photographs her daughter's photography, linking life, survival, affection, and hidden death. Jock Sturges's "Nude House" is a concern for the "celestial movement" culture. In recent years, the popular Ukrainian photographer David Dubnitskiy's idyllic girl photography combines the pastoral style, fashion color and human beauty to express the ideal life of a modern urbanite.

Therefore, Girl Photography is a very broad category, not just Girl Syashin. From Girl Syashin to Girl Photography, it will be a process of Dispel-Syashin, a process of deeper photography thinking. So we can have better girl photography. Filming boys and girls, Photographer Ren Hang is known all over the world. After Ren Hang, many outstanding young photographic artists appeared in China, such as No. 223, BingNu, Cai Dongdong, Dai Jianyong, Fang Xianhai, Gan Yingying, Yihuan, JiuKou Zouzhao, Ka Xiaoxi, Li Zhengde, Murong Tuoxie, Shen Siyuan, Xia Fuyao, Xiao Guanmu, Yuan Xiaopeng, Their works also included the creation of young girl subjects. Their photograpy are more Oriental and contemporary, and well interpret the theme and connotation of "Chinese Girls". Let the world know about Chinese photography, but also about the present and future of "Chinese Girl Photography".

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